When life gives us lemons, some would make lemonades while some would go for lemon pies. But for me, I’d squeeze one on my hair and go surf. Why not? Bali is a perfect destination for surfing!
I’ve always wanted to ride the waves but didn’t get the chance to try one in Siargao when I was still in my home country. Years passed, I met a friend who happened to be a surfer. He is from the North and he said that Bali was written in their Surfer’s Bible, as they refer it. He challenged me so I planned to take surfing lessons during our holiday.
People said that Kuta was once an empty beach when discovered by a surfer named Bob Koke who moved from Hawaii in 1936, and some things changed since then. Now, the beach is being disliked by some and put down as being owned exclusively by kooks and beginners. But being first-time surfers that we are, we headed to Kuta Beach where the waves are beginner-friendly and calmer compared to other beaches on the island.
When we got there and I’ve seen the waves, I was stunned in awe. True, Kuta might not be a very good spot for perfect long waves and is usually crowded by day-trippers, but it is good enough for people like me who wanted to learn. A surfer girl said, “You just need to read the waves, because other than at most reef breaks in Bali, the waves don’t break the same way all the time” – thus, making Kuta a perfect training ground.
We were so lucky that a guy approached us for surfing lessons. Aside from a cheaper deal, we had with him, each one of us got a personal trainer.
While on the shore, they showed the steps on how to stand on the board from paddling. After a few minutes, we hit the waves with the expectation to fall… LOTS!
After a few falls in the first hour, I did it! I managed to stand and balance up the board. So in the second hour, I did my best to ride a bigger wave, stand up the board longer, and grinning!
I just crossed out another one on my To-Do List and added that from now on, I will surf and improve my skills. Thailand doesn’t have surfing waves, so my next country to visit should be good for surfing. And why I am telling this? It is because the joy I felt and the grin I had when I was in the water can never be bought.
- Wearing proper clothes is a must! If you do not have neoprene, at least buy a rashguard that will shield you from too much sun.
- Apply sunblock (the one that is safe for sea animals).
- If you ended up having sunburn, apply ice to the affected area, or aloe vera to soothe your skin.
- Never forget to take your time and enjoy it!